Every surfer knows the feeling: the incredible power of the ocean, the waves, and the moon seems to transfer directly into you. It creates an indescribable connection with the forces of nature, a sense of boundless freedom… and an overwhelming feeling of happiness. In those very moments, every surfer thinks: “One more time!”

SURFING – AN ADDICTIVE THRILL

Every successful wave holds addictive potential: More. Longer. Higher. Especially as a beginner, you celebrate those first 3 shaky seconds standing in the whitewater. Then come the 15 seconds. And the first time you ride a green wave, there’s no turning back! From that moment on, one goal dominates the surfer’s mind: “The perfect wave!”

THE THREE TYPES OF SURFERS

If we were to categorize surfers, there would likely be three character types:

The first group consists of those who paddle out and simply try everything. They enjoy the whitewater, ride small green waves, and even take on the big, unruly washing machines. They play for hours, in all conditions, with endless stamina, their boards their constant companions in the water.

They practice new moves, experiment with different techniques, and attempt tricks. And always present: the enormous, beaming surfer grin. What matters most to them? Board in the water, ocean beneath, and standing on that wave. Where and how it happens is secondary. It’s all about the joy – and every wave they ride is a perfect wave.

Then there are those surfers who are no longer satisfied with whitewater. They systematically aim for green waves they know they can ride. And they stop as soon as their strength wanes or their performance drops. After all, every surf day should end with a perfect wave.

Finally, there’s the third group: the “no risk, no fun” surfers. The bigger, the better. The wave must barrel, be fast and steep. Ideally, they spend every possible second in the water, waiting for the last perfect wave even as the sun sets.

… And despite their differences, all surfers share one thing in common: the pursuit of the perfect wave and the feeling of pure bliss when they ride it. To wrap it up in the words of a wise surf instructor:

ONE SINGLE PERFECT WAVE CAN MAKE YOUR DAY!

… And perfection, in the end, lies in the eye of the beholder – or the surfer. 😉

Text by Stephanie Rauen